When the Lox Bagel Shop opened late last fall, its arrival was highly anticipated, I think because Columbus certainly loves bagels, and Short North lacked a solid bagel shop. But also because it was led by two very recognized names in the Columbus culinary world: owner Kevin Crowley, who most recently worked for Northstar Cafe, and chef Silas Caeton, who had proven himself at Veritas and Cosecha.
It’s no surprise that the shop proved popular very quickly, based on the pedigree of its leaders, but also on the high quality of the ingredients. Knowing that Crowley, trained at Northstar, is leading the charge means he’s bringing the same care to technique and ingredients to even something as simple as bagels.
The shop inhabits the former space of L’Antibes. It’s fairly bright inside, and decorated in calming natural woods and light blues. They employ pretty standard counter service.
The real feature, of course, is the bagels. If they didn’t master this aspect of the business, it doesn’t matter what toppings or fillings or sides they use. They make the bagels by hand, boil them, then bake them in a wood-fired oven.
Because Crowley’s put in a lot of time developing the recipes, the result is a small but focused menu of plain, everything, sesame, and sea salt + herb bagels (plus occasional specials), all superbly done.
The full menu features bagels, spreads and jams, and breakfast and lunch bagel sandwiches. (Keep an eye out on social media for specials. They’ve been doing Cuban sandwiches, a soft shell crab sandwich, and the like.)
The bagels are easily ordered to go, but even when the shop is at its busiest, we’ve been able to find a seat pretty easily.
And if Instagramming your food is your thing, well… you’re in luck.
Our favorite so far is the tender, thick-sliced, house-made pastrami layered with Swiss, pickled onion, and mustard. It’s unreasonably good, especially on an everything or sea salt and herb bagel.
We also love the egg and cheese with house-cured lox.
And you can’t go wrong with the simple egg and cheese with your choice of bacon, sausage, avocado, lox, or pastrami.
The potato bites show up as a special, and you should definitely order them when you see them. They’re the right balance of soft interior and crispy exterior, and the seasoning is spot-on.
Don’t miss the house-made jams and cream cheese spreads either.
On our most recent visit, Owen wore the astronaut costume he bought with his allowance. After taking a bite of his egg, sausage, and cheese bagel, the astronaut declared, “This is the best bagel in the history of bagels.”
I don’t know how to top that recommendation.